Alpine climbs
Years after years I have been keen to climb and collect some of the finest classic routes in the Alps by myself with leadership as main rule. Here is a list of those who impressed me the most with their beauty, story, or commitment.
Highlights
- Grandes Jorasses north face, Desmaison Cousy
- Grandes Jorasses north face, Colton-MacIntyre
- Grandes Jorasses north face, Polish Route
- Grandes Jorasses north face, Croz (Slovenian start)
- Grandes Jorasses north face, Mc Intyre Rodd Todd
- Eiger north face, 1938 Heckmair route
- Matterhorn north face, Schmidt route
- Meije north face, Z
- Dru north face, north direct Couloir (partial ascent – technical pitches only)
- Pelerins north face , Beyond good and Evil
- Mt Blanc du Tacul, Supercouloir
- Droites. north face, Lagarde direct ( solo )
- Mt Blanc du Tacul Tacul, Modica Noury & Gabarrou Albinoni (solo )
- Mont Blanc, Freney central pilar
- Pilier rouge du Brouillard, Bonatti
- Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, South ridge
- Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, Ratti Vitali
- Barre Noire, south pilar
- Pic de Bure, Desmaison
- Mont Blanc, Inominatta
- Mt Blanc du Tacul, Gervasutti pilar ( X2 ) , 2012 & 2019
- Meije, Pierre Allain
- Meije, Chapoutot Wyns / Mayer Dibona
- Meije, Traverse
Aware that you have to limit your carbon impact as much as possible, I have never been able to resolve and manage the deep contradiction between the use of the plane and the attraction of nature. This is why I have always refused to go on expeditions. Living and climbing in Chamonix is already quite impactful.
Grandes Jorasses, Eperon Croz
Je garde un souvenir marquant de l'éperon Croz. Il s'agissait pour Gaylord Dugué et moi de notre première ascension en face nord des Grandes Jorasses et n'ayont pas peur des mots, cette paroie, même avec des conditions favorables, demeure intimidante. Notre choix...
Meije, face Sud, Pierre Allain
La voie Pierre Allain est une des classiques de l'Oisans qui possède malgré ses cotations modérées un caractère montagnard significatif. La longueur, la recherche d'itinéraire et le rocher parfois douteux auront contribué à nous faire vivre avec Laura Garnier un beau...
